The first assignment in our skill-building workshop was a transect walk in a predominately Albanian neighborhood in the Bronx, where we were to check out the area and make observations. Granted, observations made in a neighborhood in the Bronx probably wasn't going to give me a lot of insight of life for Albanians in Kosovo, but I was still interested to explore this part of New York that I had never been to. Shortly after arriving at the Pelhem Parkway stop on the 5 train in the Bronx, I started to notice Albanian flags hanging out of windows in apartment buildings, and even murals painted on the sides of buildings depicting the black eagle of the Albanian flag, indicating a level of nationalism (which I would later on find out was very high!).
Growing hungry I stopped at Dukagjini Burek on Lydig Avenue. This tiny restaurant sold only burek, which can be described as a pillo dough type pastry filled with either cheese (djathë), spinach (spinaq), or meat (mish). I took the spinach, and immediately fell in love.
Digging in to the burek me spinaq (with spinach) |
Store front of the burek spot on Lydig Ave. |
While we were eating in the small, five-table restaurant, the two guys at the table next to me came over and asked where I was from. I explained I was going to Prishtina in the summer and they were so happy to hear that an American was taking an interest in their country. They had both come to New York during the war in 1999 but still had family in Prishtina that they visited every year. During a little Q&A, they had me ask them something I was interested to know about Kosovo. I told them I was curious about the type of music people listened to there. At that, one of the guys ran out to his very nice car (which was double-parked right outside) and came back with an Albanian music CD and gave it to me. They also invited me to an Albanian concert going on later that night, but it was too expensive for me to oblige. Before we left they had given me contact information for a couple of their cousins living in Prishtina that could show me around when I got there. They also told us about an Albanian grocery just down the street from where we were so we could go pick up some Turkish Delights, a common candy, as dessert.